Pattern

This is the pattern I'm currently experimenting with.

You need the following measurements:

1. bust
2. hips
3. shoulder width
4. back lenght (base of the neck to waistline)
5. front lenght (shoulder to waistline, above the bust)
6. sleeve lenght
7. sleeve lenght to the elbow

For the back.

Draw two rectangles as in the figure: AB is shoulder width / 2, EG is bust / 4 + 1 cm, JL is hips / 4; AH is back lenght, with E and C the half and quarter points respectively, HJ is 20 cm.

A---B
|   |
C---D
|   |
E---F-G
|     |
|     |
|     |
H-----I
|     |
|     |
J-----K-L

From A move 7 cm to the left and 2 cm up, mark a and connect it to A (neckline). From D measure DB/2 + 4.5 cm, mark b and connect it to a (shoulder); from D measure 1 cm to the right (d) and connect b, d and G with a deep curve (sleeve line). From I measure (hips - bust)/8 + 3 cm to the left (i) and connect G, i and L with a smooth curve. From J measure 10 cm down (j) and connect it to L with an angle in j of about 60 degrees. Connect J to A with a straight line (center back).

For the front.

Draw a rectangle as in the figure: AB is bust / 4 + 2.5 cm JL is hips / 4 + 2 cm; AH is back lenght, with E and C the half and quarter points respectively. From B measure 1.5 cm down (b) and from b the front lenght (i); measure the same lenght from A (h) and connect i and h for the waist line. From i measure 20 cm down to L and complete the figure.

  A-----B
  |     |
  C-----D
  |     |
  E-----G
  |     |
  |     |
  |     |
  H-----I
  h     i
  |     |
J-K-----L

From b measure 7 cm to the left (a) and 16 down, connect these points for the neck. From a measure the same lenght of the back shoulder, ending 2 cm below the height of b (c), connect a and c with a straight line. From E measure 2 cm up and 5.5 cm right, mark e; from E measure 1.5 cm down, mark f. Connect c, e and f for the front sleeve line. From h measure 2 cm to the right (h); connect f, h and J. From L measure 10 cm down (l) and connect J to l with an angle of about 60 degrees in l.

For the sleeve:

Measure the opening for the sleeve in the patterns for front and back: this is the sleeve width in the pattern below.

Draw a rectangle as in the figure. AG is 7/8 sleeve width, with AB 1/4, BC, CD, DE, EF and FG 1/8 such measure. AM is total sleeve lenght, AK is elbow sleeve lenght and AH is 1/4 sleeve width.

A---B-C-D-E-F-G
|   | |   |   |
|   | |   |   |
H---I-+---+---J
|   | |   |   |
|   | |   |   |
K---+-+---+---L
|   | |   |   |
|   | |   |   |
|   | |   |   |
M---+-+---+---N

From H measure 2 cm right and 1 up, mark h; from I measure 1.5 cm up, mark i; from H measure HI/2 + 1 cm right, mark ii; connect h, ii, i C with a curve. From D measure 3 cm up (d), from E measure 4 cm up (e), from F measure 1.5 cm right, mark f; from J measure 2.5 cm up (j) and 2.5 cm right (jj); connect C, d, e, f, j and jj. Connect jj with L and continue with a straight line to the line MN. From K measure 4.5 cm (k); connect h with k and continue with a straight line to MN.

The result should look like this pattern attempt for german size 40 (92 cm bust). If you want to use this pattern, note that this is (definitely) not my size, so the sleeve width hasn't been measured precisely.

Construction

You need:

• Stretch fabric (e.g. jersey): back lenght + 35 cm + sleeve lenght + about 10 cm.
• Bias tape: about 150 cm
• Fabric paint.

Lay the fabric with the right side on top, fold the sides to the middle of the fabric and cut the front and the back from the fold line, leaving 2 cm stitching allowance. Reopen the fabric, fold it in half lenghtwise, right side facing, and cut the sleeves, again with 2 cm allowance.

Lay the front and back together, right sides facing; sew the shoulders with a straight stitch and the sides with elastic stitch (or very thin zig-zag).

Sew the two sleeves with elastic stitch (again, front side facing), turn them to the right side and attach them to the main body.

Turn the whole piece right side out, finish the bottom hem and apply bias tape to the neck and sleeves.

Personalize your pajama by painting some design with fabric paints.

Pattern

You need the following measurements:

1. hips (at fullest point)
2. outside leg lenght (waist to ankle)
3. inside leg lenght (inseam)
4. pant lenght (waist to hem, on the outside)
5. leg hem circumference

Draw two rectangles as in the following figure: AB is hips / 2, BC is leg lenght - inseam, ED and CF are hips / 20 and FG is inseam. Now mark the knee line at FG / 2 + 4 cm from F (at point I) and another line halfway between I and F (at point J). Draw the axis of this figure and on that line measure the pant lenght (point K) and mark leg hem / 2 + 2 cm to l and leg hem / 2 - 2cm to m.

  A--k--B
  |  |  |
  |  |  |
E-D--+--C-F
|    |    |
j----+----J
|    |    |
i----+----I
|    |    |
|    |    |
|--l-K-m--|
H----+----G

From J measure 6 cm toward the axis and connect that point to F above and to m below (front inseam). From E measure 4 cm to the left and 1.5 cm down (e) and connect this point to l, passing from a point 5 cm to the axis from j (back inseam).

From B measure 1-1.5 cm toward the axis and connect that point to F (front crotch seam). From A measure 4 cm up (a) and connect this point to e (back crotch seam). Now connect a to B passing from k (waist hem).

Here is a sample of what the result should look like, once the construction lines have been removed: a pattern for german size 40 (again, definitely not my size :) ), i.e. 98 cm hips and 106 cm leg lenght.

Note: for short pants (knee lenght or less) it is better to draw a full lenght pattern and then cut it at the desidered lenght, measured on the outside of the leg starting from the waist.

Construction

You need:

• Stretch fabric (e.g. jersey): pants lenght + about 10 cm.
• Elastic band: 1 cm high, as long as your waist.

This is standard pant sewing with no darts or any other difficulty.

Lay the fabric right side facing and cut the main part twice, leaving 2 cm stitching allowance on the seams and botton and 5 cm on the waist. Cut the back pocket from some scrap of material.

Sew the inseams on both legs, with right sides facing; turn one leg inside-out, put it inside the other leg and sew the crotch. On the front do not sew about 1.2 cm starting from some 2 mm from the waist line, in the stitching allowance, for the elastic.

Sew 1 cm hem on the legs and 2.5 cm on the waist; on the waist add a second seam about 2 mm from the top, to create a casing for the elastic.

Sew the applied back pocket.

Add the elastic, and close the opening left in the casing by hand.